These pair look so miserable they must hate bikes
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Tony Ballard
¿dónde después? By Tony Ballard
June 2007. It seems like it's rained for most of the month. We've been wet for much of the British MotoGP weekend although we're still happy, apparently. But there's good news, I've lost my job, and this has opened up an opportunity for me to fulfill a dream. I'm going to the south of Spain to spend a few days with GS Heaven and ride a BMW R1200GS Adventure in the mountains. I sit on the Airbus and watch the low clouds roll over the airport as our speed builds for takeoff. The rain is thumping the aircraft relentlessly. I'm silently running through the conversations I've had with Russell Howard, GS Heavens owner and I do ask myself for a moment if I should really be doing this with a young family at home and no job.
I arrive at a sunny Malaga airport and there is Russell as promised in his black GS cap. He immediately puts me at ease with his friendly manner and we board the company Land Rover to make our way inland to 'Alhaurin El Grande' where I will be stopping at a Bed and Breakfast called Casa Don Carlos, run by two Dutch guys Carlo and Ronald. Forget the Costa's; this is when you start to enter 'real' Spain. Following our arrival we do the paper work and Russell spends some time briefing me. He is particularly keen that I take one piece of advice; in the villages and towns the roads have developed a 'shine' and I should be careful. On Tuesday I will find this is good advice!
If you get anywhere, get here!
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Breaking myself in gently I ride to the hills heading for the lakes to the west of Antequera. As a Ducati rider I find the GS big and as I roll down the steep hill from Casa Don Carlos for some ridiculous reason I find myself pulling in the clutch and breaking. Where I picked up this habit I really don't know and the Beamer is just happy to sit in first gear and gently lower me down the hill. Over the next few days I will learn to let the bike to take the strain, just sit back and relax. I navigate with Sat Nav supplied by GS Heaven which makes the task relatively easy. I stop off at Ardales on the way, a small white village which creates my first impression of rural Spain. I am not disappointed. Traveling east my first view of the lakes is truly breathing taking. Almost Cobalt blue they sit amongst the mountains with a majestic might that left me feeling privileged to have this opportunity to be so near to them. There are several café's that surround the lakes and the two I visited were very friendly. Be prepared with your Spanish though as you will need it. Before returning 'home' I decided to ride up a mountain road with no fixed agenda. This was my first taste of more challenging roads and having become carried away was worried when the petrol gauge dropped to a quarter of a tank. Had I been on my own bike I would surely have spent the night in the mountains although the GS tank is much, much bigger than I am used to!
Following an excellent meal provided by my hosts I went to bed full of excitement for day 2.
Look closely and you will see The Rock and the fact that this guy is asleep!
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Day 2
I'd decided before arriving that I wanted to get to Gibraltar whilst I was in Spain. It's not particularly far from where I was staying although was a goal that I'd set and being a little obsessive had to complete the mission. I'd learn later in the week to let go a little! I decide to go via Marbella and Puerto Banus although find that getting back into traffic was starting to irritate me. It took me quite a long time to negotiate my way onto the motorway down to Gibraltar. This was partly because of my lack of experience of the bike, roads and the people I shared it with. I was cautious although then I had no reason not to be. The road to Gibraltar was clear, however I was about to get my first fright, crosswinds rolling from the mountains down to the sea. After about 10 miles I started to understand the landscape, where I could expect the worst gusts and when not to overtake. It's fair to say these 10 miles were a lesson in control of a big bike in these conditions although I developed a successful technique with no dramas. I felt a real sense of achievement as Gibraltar came into view although given the ease of the task I'm not sure why. I'd never seen it before although you cannot mistake it, given it's……a big rock. Second fright of the day was just plain stupidity.
Turning left around an island someone tried to 'take me' on the outside. Not to be outdone I opened her up and, yes the surface was slippy. Now, who was more scared as the backend of the GS stepped out in front of the aforementioned car I'll never know. But it must have looked fantastic! Telling myself not to panic and introduce a little more grace to my riding, the GS rectified herself and we rode on with my pride a little bruised. Russell had warned me. I spent the rest of the day in Gibraltar and was astounded when the road was closed to allow the runway to be opened. Incredible. I left early as Russell had made some evening arrangements for me to go out with him and some other ex-pats in Estación de Cártama, such is his dedication to looking after his guests and ensuring they have a great experience. Following a steady ride back and a swim I spent a great night with Russell and his two mechanic friends, Andy and Dave, in a Tapas bar where you serve yourself with a tap at each table. Total consumed is displayed on a screen although I don't think any records were broken.
Looking down on the road that leads to Grazalema
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Day 3
Day three was going to be a run to Jerez through the heart of the mountains via Ronda and Arcos De La Frontera. I'd let go of this objective later in the day when I discovered I was missing a beautiful part of Spain for the sake of an obsession.
The two highlights of this journey were El Burgo and Grazalema, which is apparently the most humid town in Spain and a place so beautiful I will return with my family in August. I rode into the mountains further towards Arcos although at this point had spent 6 hours getting to where I was. I headed back but was astounded when it took me less than half this time for the return journey! With the exception of all the stops on the way out, this was largely to do with increased local knowledge and confidence. Mountain riding demands great respect as the bends can tighten and tighten until there is no more road and the surface, whilst mainly good can suddenly deteriorate. But when you know the road it is so much easier!
Railway bridge north of Alora.
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Day 4
My last day consisted of a coastal venture to Fuengirola and Torremolinos before moving back into the mountains having made my way up to and beyond Colmenar. Later in the day I'd pay the price for ignoring another piece of Russell's advice which was the GS can be a little top heavy with its massive tank full. Passing through the cobbled streets of Antequera the road suddenly gets very, very steep. Add to this a hair pin right turn with adverse camber and the possibility of having to stop suddenly had me sweating. All you seasoned big bike riders would not have given it a second thought although as came through the other side I did breathe a sign of relief. My last ride home had me taking every detour and possibility of getting lost I could hope to find.
I just didn't want it to end. At 19:00 hours I arrived back at Casa Don Carlos for the last time where Russell would pick me up for the return journey.
So, would I recommend it? Absolutely yes. With my (ok diminishing) commitments the practicality of owning a GS and using it for what it is intended it isn't there yet. Russell provides a cost effective opportunity to be Ewan and Charley for a few days in a beautiful environment. The GS is just a fantastic bike and confidence inspiring. However my passion for Italian bikes did prompt a conversation with Russell about the possibility of HyperMotard Heaven.Com? Still no reply from him though…..
Anyway, if you're considering it I would suggest the following:
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